“Sometimes, it’s a battle here.”
I first met 31-year-old winemaker Sara Bañuelos a few days into a press trip to several wineries in the Ribera Del Duero and Rueda districts of northern Spain. By that point, I’d met with many winemakers who all relatively looked the same — males in their 40s and 50s with a bit of scruff.
The few female winemakers I did meet during the trip, women like Camino Pardo Alvarez of Bodegas Nexus, María Luisa Cuevas of Ferratus and María Pinacho of Bodegas Marqués de Velilla were inspiring in their own right. They were all bad asses with decades of wine experience who managed to make way for themselves in a male-dominated industry. However, it’s Bañuelos who’s ushering in the female-forward future of Spanish wine — as general manager of Bodegas Ramón Bilbao.
While I looked on, the bold oenologist commanded the wine tasting room, explaining to a group of 20 the company’s nearly century-long history, achievements, and current plans. At 31, Bañuelos didn’t grow up thinking she would one day lead an award-winning winery, but it may have been written in the stars for the young winemaker.
“I didn’t know I would go into the wine industry, despite wine being in my blood,” she told me, following a delicious lunch. “But my family is from Rioja, which is a premier wine region. Maybe I should have known.”
Bodegas Ramón Bilbao was founded in La Rioja in 1924, and though it produced wine in Rueda as part of a partnership with Diez Siglos, it wasn’t until last month that the wine company opened its own winery in Rueda. The company also purchased 150 acres of Rueda vineyards, with hopes of making a more dominant mark in the world of white wines.
Rueda is world-renowned as the top white wine region in Spain thanks to its indigenous Verdejo grapes, pebbly soil, and the region’s high altitude. A raised elevation means a more continental climate, providing the area with optimal weather conditions needed to grow Verdejo grapes. Bilbao’s expansion to Rueda may have given Bañuelos an opportunity to better succeed as a woman in wine. The winemaker feels Rueda, as a region, is a bit more progressive.
“I think some years ago, it was more difficult because it was a man’s world,” she notes. “But nowadays, I think mostly in the white wines, the women have more power. We are making a way. We’re more important now.”