Let’s get one thing straight: I didn’t actually catch any waves when I went surfing with Kelly Slater and Bethany Hamilton.
That would have made for a better story. When a person gets the chance to paddle out with the winningest surfer ever and a woman who embodies the sport’s requisite combo of toughness and fluidity, it would be cool to actually score some nice rides and then finish the day joking around on shore like three best friends. Maybe a campfire and some Jack Johnson music?
But it didn’t go down like that. Not even close.