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“¡Ay bendito! I’m in Puerto Rico!” I exclaimed (sorta quietly, mostly to myself) as I walked off the jet bridge and into the terminal of Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport in San Juan. While it would be my second time to the island(s), I felt particularly excited to return to this U.S. territory and continue practicing my Spanish-speaking skills. I’m on an 800+ day Duolingo streak, so my hopes for being able to communicate were exceedingly high.
For those who failed HS government, Puerto Rico is one of the 16 territories owned by the United States. It’s wrapped in the same collection as American Samoa, Guam, Northern Mariana Islands, and the Virgin Islands. While these territories aren’t considered states, U.S. citizens can freely travel to these destinations without a passport. I repeat: YOU DON’T NEED A PASSPORT TO TRAVEL TO PUERTO RICO — making it exceedingly easy.
Another even lesser-known tidbit about Puerto Rico is that it’s more than just one island. In fact, Puerto Rico is an archipelago — consisting of the main island, four small islands, and hundreds of cays and islets. When planning a trip, you should definitely spend time on the main island (which takes only six hours to drive around completely) but also craft part of your itinerary to enjoy its second main sister island, Vieques. Which is exactly what I had planned.
To help build a travel itinerary that spans more than just a weekend and covers more than just the hits, I’m sharing the best places to visit and things to do that I’ve personally enjoyed in two trips to the territory.
Fly Like A Budget Travel Pro
Island-hopping in Puerto Rico doesn’t have to be expensive. In fact, one of the most alluring factors when it comes to booking a trip to Puerto Rico is its close proximity to the states, making for cheap and short flights.
Most flights departing from the east coast of the United States cost as little as $200 roundtrip. Plus we’re only talking two to four hours from the east coast, so you can spend more time vacationing in the tropical sun and less sitting on a crowded airplane. If you want to parlay off of a larger Florida trip, Fort Lauderdale, Orlando, Tampa, and Miami all have under three-hour direct flights for as low as $100.
Scouting Google Flights with flexible dates and airlines will give you even more budget-friendly options.
Start With Some History In Old San Juan
You’ll want to land in San Juan to secure your cheapest flight to Puerto Rico from almost anywhere in the United States. At first glance, San Juan looks like any regular Americanized / fast-food favorable city. Take a taxi out of the main city limits and head to Old San Juan for a better (or at least prettier) representation of the city’s capital and enjoy some Spanish and Puerto Rican history (the Indigenous history is less readily visible, which we’ve covered in the past).
Conquered and colonized by the Spanish in the early 16th Century, Old San Juan is often called the oldest city in America, which is wrong for a few million reasons. I link to these articles (here’s another — from the tourism board no less!) because it’s important to wrestle with the interplays of Indigenous and Spanish history while you stroll the cobbled streets adorned with pastel-colored colonial buildings and apartments, leading you to Castillo San Felipe del Morro, or what the locals call “El Morro.” Spanning over 500 years of colonial history, this six-level fortress was an important military outpost for Spain and later the United States in both World Wars (here again, the reappropriation of the island as a military hub is an issue that deserves your attention). A short half-mile walk away is also Fortín San Juan de la Cruz or “El Cañuelo.” Both forts allowed colonial Puerto Rican powers to ward off further invasions by the British, Dutch, and various pirates.
Cap off your day of walking (and wrestling with the heavy/ dense matter of colonial history in the Caribbean) with a meal at Marmalade. Nestled in the heart of Old San Juan, this might turn out to be one of your best culinary experiences on the whole island. While it’s certainly not light on your wallet, there’s nothing wrong with splurging on a five-course meal with a perfect wine pairing to round out the day and it’s my highest recommendation for a fun splurge.
Adventure In El Yunque National Forest & Sleep In Luxury
Once you’ve had a day in Old San Juan, take an easy hour’s drive east for some lush luxury at St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort. The resort is placed on 483 acres of what was once a coconut farm and is beautifully situated among natural rivers, lakes, and lush tropical greenery. Most of its buildings overlook the gardens and the two-mile Crescent Beach, or boast views of the nearby El Yunque National Forest (more on that soon). What makes this St. Regis stand out among the rest of its global locations is its 65% on-site green areas, including wildlife sanctuaries and nature trails. The resort works directly with public and private organizations to protect local endangered species — like the leatherback turtle — and is one of 21 resorts worldwide (and the only one in the Caribbean!) designated as a Certified Gold Audubon International Signature Sanctuary.
Check in at the earliest time you can, enjoy the stunning five-star pool, and then head to the resort’s Paros restaurant for dinner. Because of the island’s location, the sun sets early here, usually around 5 p.m. Make sure to go around then to sip and eat overlooking the sea with its floor-to-ceiling windows. Some highlights for dinner that you should definitely make sure to order:
- Tuna Sashimi: I had this for a starter but I could’ve eaten it as a whole meal. It literally melted in your mouth, it was that fresh.
- Paros Signature Dish: As the restaurant’s “signature dish” I held this to pretty high standards. It’s essentially Puerto Rico’s version of paella but instead of prawns it came with pieces of lobster. It was so filling due to the richness of the lobster, though I will admit that I thought the rice was a tad dry. It’s big enough to share with the table – especially with the steep price of this dish.
- Cauliflower Steak: I’m not normally one to order many vegetarian dishes, but this one hit out of the park. The sunflower pesto sauce drizzled over this with fresh tomatoes were paired great together and made eating a roasted cauliflower anything but a chore.
After a lay day, the real adventure begins — head out to El Yunque National Forest just 25 minutes away. This ecological gem should definitely be on your itinerary, so make it a priority. It’s the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest system, spanning over 29,000 acres of some of the most biologically diverse ecosystems in the world and home to over 240 plant species. You’ll find over 18 miles of roads and 24 miles of recreational hiking trails, boasting waterfalls, lagoons, and lush mountains. If you’d rather enjoy the beauty of the rainforest in your car, you can drive through El Toro Scenic Byway. But we recommend getting dirty and sweaty and having a proper adventure!
Book your stay at St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort here.
Fly (Don’t Ferry) To & From Vieques
In my humble opinion, no trip to Puerto Rico is complete without visiting its sister island, Vieques. You’ll find a lot of information online about taking a ferry to Vieques, but we’re here to tell you to skip that. You can take a flight from San Juan to Vieques, or even better, head to Ceiba. You’ll continue an hour Southeast from St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort to this tiny little airport. You’ll have to be aware of how much luggage you bring as everything is weighed, including yourself. It’s a whole add-on adventure on top of your trip and it saves you so much time.
A flight from Ceiba to Vieques takes exactly seven minutes and most flights are only $45. It’s a no-brainer.
Book your flight from Ceiba to Vieques via Vieques Air Link here.
Holistic & Ayurvedic Living At La Finca Victoria
Because Vieques is just a mere 21 miles long and three miles wide, you can get around pretty easily. With that said, there aren’t many hotels on the island!
I stayed at La Finca Victoria, a farmhouse-style bed and breakfast in the heart of the island. The property boasts luscious vegetation and soothing symphonies of the endemic Coqui frogs. Being on one of the highest points of the island, it had amazing views of the sunrises and sunsets and with the lack of light pollution, stunning views of the night sky. It was also 10 minutes from multiple beaches and the “downtown” area, so that was also a huge plus.
This was one of my favorite stays during my travels to Puerto Rico. Each morning starts off with an 8 am complimentary yoga class overlooking the island before you’re served an inclusive vegan breakfast prepared from the vegetables, fruits, and herbs from its onsite garden. It radiates peace and tranquility, with plenty of areas to unwind and find some quiet space. Every person there was young and exuded a positive and healthy persona that was infectiously admirable throughout all parts of the property.
Each “casita” was completely different but all had similar local vintage furniture and aesthetic. I stayed in one of the Victoria suites which was so cute, with its colonial Victorian-style chandeliers and artwork. The private outdoor shower was pretty amazing to wash off in after spending some time at the beach as well.
Book your stay at La Finca Victoria here.
Plan Accordingly & Don’t Go During A Full Moon
You can’t go to Vieques and not visit the world-famous Mosquito Bay, known to be the world’s brightest bioluminescent bay. Unfortunately, I traveled to Vieques during the peak full moon (plan around this, people!). Because of how bright the full moon is on the water, you can’t successfully experience Mosquito Bay and see the bioluminescence at certain times of the month. It’s one of my most epic travel fails to date.
Ideally, you should travel during a new moon. At the very least, go when it’s anything but full.
Horseback Ride Through Rolling Hills & A Black Sand Beach
Horseback riding seems kind of like a basic tourist activity but I promise you won’t regret booking it on Vieques. I took a two-hour horseback riding tour with Esperanza Riding Company and it was one of the best riding tour experiences I’ve had. I rode a Paso Fino horse through winding hills, open meadows, wooded terrain, and through the idyllic beaches of Playa Coqual and Playa Negra.
The overviews overlooking the coast and land are truly breathtaking and it was such a lovely way to connect to the land.
Book your Vieques horseback riding tour here.
Head Out On The Water With A Catamaran Tour
I spent two days in Vieques and felt that it was enough time to see the small, beautiful island. I flew back to the main island with another cheap $45 flight and was thrilled to spend the day at sea. Although I was disappointed I couldn’t experience Mosquito Bay and the bioluminescent water, I was thrilled to go out on a private catamaran out of Fajardo.
I’ve been on plenty of boats in various locations, and I must say, East Island Excursions hosted a great day out on the water. I was originally supposed to visit the other famous island of Culebra and visit the world-famous Flamenco beach during the boat tour but my bad luck continued and I was rerouted to visit the small, uninhabited island Icacos due to intense currents. While I was disappointed I couldn’t get to Culebra, East Island Excursions made sure I had a great day snorkeling and wading in the ocean while also providing the best lunch I’ve ever had on a booked boating experience.
Here are several Catamaran experiences departing out of Marina Puerto Del Rey in Fajardo. Check out all the options here.
Ride The Longest Zipline In America
Now you’ll want to start making your way to the Western side of the island. Two and half hours into your drive from Fajardo, make sure to stop at Toro Verde Adventure Park. Nestled in the mountains of Orocovis, Toro Verde has one of the world’s longest and fastest ziplines, a 1.57-mile adrenaline-pumping adventure called “The Monster.” The ecological adventure park boasts some of the most breathtaking mountain views or “vistas” on the island, which can be seen through its other seven ziplines and suspension bridges.
Obviously, don’t go here if you’re afraid of heights, but if you’re up for an exhilarating adventure — this is a must.
Check out all of what Toro Verde Adventure Park has to offer here.
Be A Beach Bum & Surfing Babe In Rincón
We’re saving the best for last on this one. After throwing yourself through the air on some crazy ziplines, continue driving another two and a half hours and settle into Rincón. Once you visit, you won’t want to leave. Especially, if you’re in my age range and single and fun and adventurous. I was actually that girl who semi-seriously looked into renting an apartment here for a couple of months because I simply did not want to leave. There’s just a peaceful and slow essence about it that truly captures anyone who comes here.
Often overlooked, this small town rests on the far west side of Puerto Rico. With more than eight miles of coastline, the beaches of Rincón are some of the best in the world for surfing. So if you’re one to get your surf on, make sure to add this town to your list. I can’t stand on a surfboard to save my life, so I perfectly played the beach bum role by beach hopping Sandy Beach, Domes Beach, and Maria’s Beach.
If you want to change up your daily itinerary from just lounging on the beach, you can conclude your epic island vacation with a quick trip to Gozalandia Falls. Located less than an hour from Rincón, this “locals only” spot features a 60-foot tall waterfall for picturesque views, swimming, and rope jumping. Totally Instagram-able to round out your Puerto Rico trip.
