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As an avid outdoor adventurer, I always look for new regions in the United States to hike and explore. And as an amateur oenophile (sounds better than wine-drinker or the pejorative wino), I’m always looking for wineries that might be nearby said outdoor recreations. Few things are better than wine after a hike. So when I started reading about the Finger Lakes region of New York, I knew I had to get there for a solo trip.
With over 140 wineries and vineyards, the Finger Lakes are the largest wine-producing region in the United States east of California. Named fourth best wine region by USA Today and third best fall vacation spot in the United States by US News and World Report, I decided that a fall trip would be my best bet to get in the mix and see what this Western Upstate New York region offers.
Made up of 11 long, narrow, finger-like lakes just south of Lake Ontario, the region is surprisingly quaint considering its size and population. I didn’t have unlimited time, so I began my trip in Rochester, spending three days visiting cities mostly near the two largest lakes – Seneca and Cayuga. Here’s my itinerary, with recommendations for eating, drinking, sleeping, exploring, and tasting a whole lot of wine.
LEG 1 — START IN ROCHESTER
I flew into Rochester to begin my solo adventure without really knowing what to expect. Rochester, to me, was always just one of those cities that I knew existed. And… that’s it, for better or worse. After spending a short time there, I can say that the vibes are excellent – the people, food, and drink all exceeded my expectations. I only wished I had more time to savor them.
Consider that as you plan your own trip.
Where to Eat & Drink:
CURE
My favorite meal in Rochester was at Cure, a local seasonal French eatery in the Rochester Public Market neighborhood. I loved the low lighting, stylish decor, inventive cocktails, and, of course, the meal. The grilled bread was exceptional, and the Saucisse Boudin Blanc recommended by my server was a delight.
LIVING ROOTS WINE AND CO.
My first wine tasting set a high bar, to say the least. I visited Living Roots Wine and Co’s Rochester urban tasting room and enjoyed the “Bubbles” flight of sparkling wines. With wineries in both the Finger Lakes and the Adelaide Hills region of South Australia, the family-owned and operated winery is a treat.
I especially enjoyed the Adelaide Hills Sparkling Red with notes of raspberry, chocolate, savory pepper, dried herbs, and fine tannins. No, I don’t feel guilty for picking a wine from a different region as my favorite.
GENESEE BREW HOUSE
You can’t visit Rochester without doing two things: drinking a Genesee Beer and eating a Garbage Plate. I checked both boxes during a lunchtime visit to Genesee Brew House on the Genesee River in downtown Rochester – where the views are as impressive as the brews. I enjoyed a traditional cheeseburger Garbage-inspired Plate (originally conceived at Nick Tahou Hots) consisting of fries, macaroni salad, and protein topped with raw onions and varying condiments.
The Rochester classic paired nicely with my flight of classic Genesee beers – I recommend the Cream Ale and Ruby Red Kolsch.
Where to Stay:
HAMPTON INN DOWNTOWN ROCHESTER
You might be surprised that a Hampton Inn is something that I, someone who makes their living travel writing, would include in a piece like this. I am kind of surprised myself. Not that there’s anything wong with Hampton Inns, it’s just that they are primarily straightforward establishments. But this newly built downtown location felt new and much more upscale than others I’ve visited. The location is incredible, the ceilings are high, the art is interesting, the bar and restaurant are stylish, and my room even had a large balcony with city views.
It was a great surprise to start my journey.
Where to Explore:
THE STRONG MUSEUM OF PLAY
Here again, you might wonder why I – an adult woman – would include this entry on her recommended travel itinerary. But you obviously have not visited The Strong Museum of Play. The massive interactive museum is not just for kids (although there is plenty for them to explore) but for visitors of all ages. Home to the World Video Game Hall of Fame and the National Toy Hall of Fame, it has not just the largest collections of games, toys, and dolls in the world but stars tons of interactive elements that will make anyone smile.
From a butterfly garden to the world’s largest playable Donkey Kong arcade game, vintage pinball machines, and an arcade filled with nostalgic working games – this was a real surprise for me and a definite treat.
RIVERFRONT HIGH FALLS
I didn’t have much time to explore the outdoors near Rochester, but luckily, you don’t have to go far to get your fix — there is a striking 96-foot-tall waterfall right downtown. High Falls provides a gorgeous juxtaposition to the city’s urban backdrop, whether walking along the pedestrian path or enjoying the view from nearby Genesee Brew House.
LEG 2 – ROCHESTER TO GENEVA (NY)
Geneva, New York, despite its small size, is, as they like to say: “uniquely urban.” The downtown area is slight but feels much more metropolitan than the population would suggest. With the gorgeous Linden Street, the historic Smith Opera House, award-winning dining, and the notable Geneva Row Houses all set against the magnificent backdrop of Seneca Lake, this is an ideal base for exploration and wine tastings in the Finger Lakes.
Note: The drive from Rochester is roughly an hour. Since you’re on vacation, I recommend traveling outside of work commute hours.
Where to Eat & Drink:
FOX RUN VINEYARDS
The Seneca Lake Wine Trail is packed – so I had to choose my two tasting locations wisely. By this, I mean I asked two people, and when they both recommended the same wineries, I was sold. And luckily, their recommendations were excellent.
I loved walking right into Fox Run Vineyards (and any winery in the area) for a tasting or a tour without the hassle of a reservation like you find in Napa. But despite the more casual approach, the wine was anything but. I enjoyed a very approachable red wine tasting and walked away feeling like I had learned a few things, too.
BILLSBORO WINERY
Billsboro Winery, on the North end of Seneca Lake near Geneva, is the scene I’d hoped to find in an upstate winery. A barn on the top of a hill overlooking a lake on 60 acres surrounded by century-old walnut trees: how is that not paradise? And that’s before I even tasted any wine.
Billsboro Winery crafts dry, classic European wines, and I was impressed by each of them. I especially loved the Rosé Pinot Noir-Syrah.
VINIFERA
Vinifera New York, is truly a gem in downtown Geneva. As the only wine shop and tasting room featuring exclusively Finger Lakes regional wines, it’s a must-stop. Add in the speakeasy below the wine shop – the first and only in the Finger Lakes region – and you’ve got the perfect spot to walk to before or after dinner in Geneva. Founder Jim Cecere and his creative director, Kevin San Jose (who was recently named to Wine Enthusiast’s Future 40 Tastemakers for 2023), have genuinely put love and care into Vinifera’s wine list, decor, and atmosphere.
I loved enjoying a local red in the speakeasy. It felt, as the best speakeasies do, like a portal to another time.
KINDRED FARE
Dinner at the cozy Kindred Fare was the perfect end to my day in Geneva. The restaurant, which sources all ingredients from local farmers and producers, operates by the motto “to share is to love” – which comes through in everything. The dining room was packed on a weeknight, with groups enjoying delicious food, drinks, and laughs in a very familiar way. I enjoyed the Crispy Calamari and Chickpea appetizer, local Lively Run Finger Lakes goat cheese, and a perfectly cooked grilled sliced local grass-fed beef flank steak with black garlic butter, house steak sauce, rosemary fries, and garlic aioli.
Where to Stay:
41 LAKEFRONT HOTEL
I stayed at the 41 Lakefront Hotel in Geneva, ideally situated on Seneca Lake and within walking distance to anywhere you want to travel downtown. My room had a gorgeous lake view facing the sunrise, and the newly renovated rooms were clean and spacious.
I loved sitting outside at night by the lake with a glass of wine from the on-site farm-to-table restaurant F2t Kitchen and walking along the lake path.
Where to Explore:
DEER HAVEN PARK
If you’re looking for something slightly more off-the-beaten-path or an unexpected stop between wine tastings, head to Deer Haven Park, the home of the Seneca White Deer. I went into my auto tour expecting wildlife sightings but came out with many interesting facts about the land’s former use as the Seneca Army Depot. It was fascinating to see how nature has taken over the onetime military compound and helped to provide a space for wildlife to thrive.
LEG 3 – GENEVA TO WATKINS GLEN
Watkins Glen is known for world-class road racing, incredible waterfalls, and of course wine. Known as the “Home of Road Racing,” the first post-war road racing event was held in 1948. It’s a fascinating place to visit for any of the above reasons, but if you’re not yet convinced, it’s also a prime spot to view the April 2024 eclipse, as it will experience 99% magnitude.
Note: The drive here will take roughly 45 minutes.
Where to Eat & Drink:
RYAN WILLIAM VINEYARD
The drive from Geneva to Watkins Glen has it all: gorgeous lake views, rolling hills, and wineries every few yards – it seems like. It was tough to choose one to visit, but when I saw the striking and modern Ryan Williams Vineyard up on a hill, I knew I had to check it out. Using 100% estate-grown fruit in their winemaking, Ryan Williams Vineyard is committed to preserving the sanctity of the region and stewarding the land, which has led to many award-winning wines.
I loved my tasting enough to check a bag to take a bottle of rosé home.
FINGER LAKES CIDER HOUSE
Enjoy some cider, farm-to-table food, apple picking, a tour, and maybe even some music and barbecue during a Finger Lakes Cider House visit. This thriving, diversified organic farm specializes in the champagne method of cider making, and after trying nearly all of them, I can say they have it dialed. The food is next level, and the care for the land, animals, and people in the community is super evident here.
THE GRILL AT THE LAUREL
The Grill at the Laurel was a nice treat while staying at The Hotel Laurel at Seneca. After a long day hiking and exploring, the atmosphere was approachable while still feeling sleek, with an excellent selection of entrees and wine. The view over the lake at sunset can’t be beat.
Where to Stay:
THE HOTEL LAUREL AT SENECA
Known for its NASCAR and Formula 1 racing history, Watkins Glen has long been a stop for car racers and celebrity enthusiasts. Legend has it that many would stay at the former Glen Motor Inn, which has recently been renovated and reopened as The Hotel Laurel at Seneca. The traditional motor inn is updated while still keeping its mid-century modern design and charm, with rooms overlooking the lake, a great bar and restaurant, and a large patio to enjoy the view.
YURT AT GOOD LIFE FARM
While I didn’t get to stay in the Yurt on the Good Life Farm and Finger Lakes Cider House property, I was entranced during a quick tour. The handmade yurt feels like stepping into a hobbit world, with a babbling brook, tall trees, modern amenities, and design just steps from the Cider House but somehow it feels much more remote.
Where to Explore:
WATKINS GLEN STATE PARK
Watkins Glen State Park was a highlight of this trip and my travel period. The easily accessible park, formerly a resort bought by New York State in 1906, is simply stunning. I loved hiking the famous Gorge Trail, a short 1.9-mile trail that packs a punch with an impressive 19 waterfalls along the short path. You’ll also want to check out South Rim Trail and Finger Lakes Trail.
WATKINS GLEN HISTORIC DOWNTOWN
After your hike, stroll to Watkins Glen downtown (accessible directly from the park) for quaint shopping, drinking, and eating. The town is pulled straight from a Hallmark movie, with historic storefronts and plenty of charm. I was lucky to visit during the Watkins Glen Grand Prix, which included a tribute road race through downtown using the race’s original 6.6-mile road course used during the races of 1948-1952.
LEG 4 – WATKINS GLEN BACK TO ROCHESTER
Where to Eat & Drink:
CRICKETS
For a quick stop between Watkins Glen and Rochester (1.5 hour drive), opt for a bite at Crickets in Geneseo. The eclectic coffee, kitchen, and bar were lively on a Saturday morning, with a great diverse crowd enjoying coffee, breakfast, and cocktails. My Lazy Lavender latte was just flavored enough, and the Hangover Egg Sandwich was… aptly named and did the trick.
DEER RUN WINERY
Located on Conesus Lake – the furthest west of the finger lakes – Deer Run Winery is the oldest operating winery in the region. I had a blast at my tasting on the winery’s gorgeous property, sampling various wines. The Conesus White was a stand-out.
Where to Explore:
LETCHWORTH STATE PARK
Known as the “Grand Canyon of the East,” Letchworth State Park is stunning. The roughly 17-mile-long park follows the Genesee River through its impressive gorge and waterfalls. The three central falls are straightforwardly named Upper, Middle, and Lower. But don’t let the names fool you – they are anything but standard. The park is impressive any time of year and will be even more so when the leaves peak this autumn.
