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My goal of traveling solo to all 50 US states was stuck at 49 states for an excessive amount of time. Why? Because I wanted to visit my last state in peak season — Vermont, in the fall.
Last fall, I finally did it. I flew to the Freedom and Unity state to have a peep at all those leaves for myself. The colors were breathtaking, yes, but I realized on that short visit that there was a whole lot more I wanted to see.
So this fall, I traveled back to Vermont — this time to the state’s largest city this time around. Up until I booked my tickets, I really only knew that Burlington was where Ben and Jerry’s started, Bernie Sanders once served as mayor, and that the high school was temporarily housed in an old Macy’s department store and went viral. Also, I had seen the city pop up on many “Best,” “Safest,” and “Happiest” cities lists, and had friends tell me it shared similar vibes to my home in Boulder.
So I set off to see for myself. Here are my recommendations for a fall weekend in Burlington.
EAT & DRINK:
Juniper Bar & Restaurant
I had a few meals at Juniper during my last trip, and not just because it was located in the lobby of Hotel Vermont, my downtown Burlington hotel. The modern, thoughtful, and stylish restaurant feels much more like a neighborhood haunt than a hotel restaurant, with live music, energetic crowds, an incredible bar, and – of course – great food. My first meal was the lobster roll special with fries enjoyed at the bar (when in the Northeast, right?), which I ate so quickly that a few people actually (politely) laughed at me. Another night, I enjoyed the Mushroom Chevre Gnocchi and a taste of the 10th Anniversary Jasper Hill Farms Willoughby Cheese macaroni.
For breakfast, I can’t recommend Red Flannel Hash enough – Jericho Settlers Farm beets, potatoes, Montreal-spiced brisket, two eggs any style, and Red Hen toast that comes together perfectly.
Bleu Northeast Kitchen
Bleu Northeast Kitchen is another unassuming restaurant in a hotel, this time at the downtown Courtyard Burlington Harbor. It was recommended highly and did not disappoint. I enjoyed the chicken and waffles (I had to stray away from the Northeast flavors for just a meal), the service, and the ambiance.
After breakfast, cross the road, and you’re on the gorgeous shores of Lake Champlain.
Hen Of The Wood
During my few days in Burlington, Hen of the Wood came up a lot. Like a lot, a lot. Located downtown just next door to Hotel Vermont, some hotel employees noted that it’s common for guests to travel to the city and stay at the hotel just to head next door and experience a meal at the repeat James Beard-nominated restaurant. The space is cozy and dark, with crowds even late into weekday evenings.
The menus change daily — created to showcase the vibrant Vermont foods, with an extensive wine list and impeccable service. I enjoyed my Hanger Steak entree, but what shone most brightly for me was a special cantaloupe and duck confit appetizer.
August First
For a pastry, coffee, or unique lunch, head to August First, a locally owned (you’ll notice nearly everything is here) bakery and cafe serving made-from-scratch breakfast and lunch. I visited during lunch and braved the line (it’s popular for a reason, y’all) for The Day Maker breakfast sandwich with egg, cheddar, bacon fat aioli, tomato-habanero jam, arugula, red onion, on brioche with a local Maple seltzer water.
Splash at The Boathouse
I can’t speak to the food at the waterfront Splash, but the seasonal restaurant and bar on Lake Champlain is the perfect place to enjoy a drink by the water on a beautiful day. Just be on the lookout for Champ, the Lake Champlain monster.
STAY:
Hotel Vermont
If you’re visiting Burlington, I can’t recommend Hotel Vermont enough. Its perfect downtown location, amiable staff, commitment to local makers, and a slew of thoughtful amenities make this – Burlington’s only independently owned hotel – a standout. I loved the Vermont Flannel Company robes, locally made Lunaroma custom blend bath and body products, yoga studio, communal book, and game library, complimentary bikes, and the fun “bedtime menu” with hot toddies, milk, and cookies, or aromatherapy as options to help you wind down.
The location is where you want to be, with staff eager to help you plan the perfect Burlington adventure. I loved hanging out in the lobby and at the bar at Juniper, which was packed with locals and incredible bartenders every night.
EXPLORE:
Burlington Farmers Market
If you visit Burlington on a weekend between May and October, add the Farmer’s Market to your list. The area is known for its farmers and artisans, and this is the perfect way to get a taste (literally) of them all in one spot. From oysters to fresh flowers, homemade marshmallows to the traditional farmers market fare – you won’t go hungry here.
Church St.
The Church Street Pedestrian Mall is the heart of the city in Burlington. With over 30 local restaurants and over 60 local retailers, it is always packed with locals and tourists. I loved stopping by Crow Bookshop to pick up a new tome, Smugglers Notch Distillery for a tasting, and The Vermont Flannel Company to admire the creative uses of the fabric while eyeing a robe to take home as a souvenir.
South End Arts District
While in Burlington, I kept remarking that it felt “much larger than it was – in a good way.” Despite being the largest city in Vermont, the population still hovers below 45,000 people. Still, you wouldn’t know it, judging by the sheer amount of art, galleries, and makers throughout the city. An especially packed area is the South End Arts District, with enough shops, galleries, restaurants, and wine bars to keep you busy for an entire weekend.
Sail Vermont / Lake Champlain
You’ll have to time your visit right for this one, but it will be more than worth it. Burlington sits on the shores of the gorgeous Lake Champlain, and sailing on its water was one of the most peaceful and memorable experiences of my travels this year. There are various ways to get out onto the water, but I recommend Sail Vermont for private daytime and sunset sailing cruises. Their ocean racing yachts are comfortable and sleek (their boat, Blue, is Vermont’s only zero-emissions lake tour vessel), and the captains are knowledgeable and fun.
SIDE TRIP — MONTPELIER
Just under 40 miles outside of Burlington, you’ll find the state capitol of Montpelier. Just 8,000 people populate the small town, but it is worth a detour.
Barr Hill Distillery
I’m not a gin girlie, but one bottle I’ll always have stocked on my bar is Barr Hill. In fact, I made a detour to the Montpelier distillery on my first trip to the state just because I am such a fan and wanted to taste a Bee’s Knees straight from the source. Founded by a beekeeper and a distiller, the award-winning Barr Hill Distillery distills gin, vodka, and a Tom Cat Gin.
Known for its “Bee’s Knees Week” — a fundraising effort that raises money for 1% for the Planet approved partners — once you’re at the distillery, you can enjoy a cocktail, food, or a tour at their large facility.
SIDE TRIP — STOWE
Stowe, Vermont, just 36 miles from Burlington, is a quintessential New England town famous for its fall foliage (and influx of influencers) and its world-class ski resort. It is the perfect spot for a day trip from Burlington in any season.
Von Trapp Lodge
One of my favorite stops in Stowe is von Trapp Lodge and Brewing. The lodge and resort were founded by the real-life von Trapp family (of Sound of Music fame) after they escaped Austria during World War II and settled in Vermont. The resort is incredibly picturesque, with apparent Austrian influence and extensive grounds to enjoy outdoor activities whether you book a room or visit for the day.
Just down the road from the original lodge lies Von Trapp Brewing, a brewery, and beirhall serves von Trapps crisp, flavorful lagers along with Austrian-inspired dishes in a large facility with incredible views and outdoor space.
Cold Hollow Cider Mill and Hard Cider Tasting Room — Waterbury
Whether you visit in the busy fall season or not, you’ll still want to consider stopping at Cold Hollow Cider Mill for their famous cider and, more importantly to me, apple cider donuts. Just 10 miles down the road from Stowe in Waterbury, the bakery and market– full of Vermont goods – is quaint and cavernous. Afterward, head over to the Hard Cider Tasting Room, which serves breakfast and lunch, along with tastings of their tasty Vermont hard ciders in the rustic and chic tasting room.
