One of the few highlights in the wasteland of 2016 has been the rise of Danny Trejo from beloved pop culture icon to beloved pop culture icon and literal taste-maker. Trejo’s Tacos caused a serious stir in Los Angeles when it was announced at the beginning of the year, and the success of that storefront was so dramatic that Trejo is now — against all odds — becoming a legitimate culinary player.
Trejo and his team have just opened a second location, Trejo’s Cantina, in the heart of Hollywood. Located midway between the Palladium and the historic Pantages Theatre, Trejo’s Cantina fits snugly into a small plaza of eateries that includes a poutinerie and one of the most highly-acclaimed burger joints in Los Angeles.
The cozy restaurant has a bar with over 20 California beers on tap, and the menu offers plenty of everything you’d want from a Mexican restaurant — burritos, tacos, quesadillas — with the upscale twists that Los Angeleans have come to expect from upscale and avant eateries. It’s a cliché at this point that food in L.A. is unnecessarily chichi. Hell, it was a cliché back when L.A. Story goofed on it in 1991. But it’s a stereotype with a ring of truth, and when most locals go out to dine, they sort of expect something unusual to at least be on offer.
Trejo’s Cantina bridges the gap perfectly between traditional Mexican and contemporary Los Angeles cuisine. The guacamole offers a twist on the standard pepitas topping by being presented with pistachios instead, which is a minor twist that is as delicious as you’d hope without local critics having to go into a “peas in guacamole!” uproar. The carnitas and asada tacos and burritos are tasty, the fried chicken burrito is a star, and the vegan taco option — roasted cauliflower — is possibly the highlight of the entire enterprise.
But the real draw, of course, is Trejo himself. Pairing a cult celebrity with contemporary Mexican cuisine is the cherry on top of this Los Angeles sundae, and even though he’s a for-real restaurateur at this point, it’s still a little surreal to think of Danny Trejo as a culinary icon. So we took the time to talk to the man himself about how he got wrapped up in this endeavor, and how hands-on he is with the business.